Nanga Parbat. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek "Czapkins" Mackiewicz are probably the second team in history to reach the Nanga Parbat summit in winter after many years of trying. Unfortunately, this time the price was very high.
At the end of December, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol started their climb to Nanga Parbat (8126 m). Reaching the summit hardly happened on January 25. Due to the clouds obscuring the dome of the summit, the expedition was visible from the base to a height of about 8. meters, therefore it was not certain whether the pair had finally achieved their goal.
Unfortunately, information about the team's problems was received shortly after that, they were then at an altitude of 7400 meters. Tomek was in a very bad condition, According to French, at the top she realized that Tomek had it troubles. He probably had altitude sickness and snow blindness. She managed to bring Tomek to the height of 7250 m above sea level, secure him with a sleeping bag and put it in the gap.
Nanga Parbat.
27 January helicopters took the rescue team from the K2 base Jarosław Botor (team leader) Denis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Piotr Tomala. A few hours later, the team was dropped off at an altitude of about 4900 m above sea level in the first camp on Nanga Parbat.
It took only 8 hours for Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki to reach the woman. Elizabeth was exhausted, her hands and left foot were frostbitten, but she remained clear of mind. When asked by Adam Bielicki, she reported that at the time of her separation from Tomek, he was in a very bad condition, his arms, legs and face were frostbitten, he could not move on his own and there was no contact with him.
Because of the extreme difficult conditions it was decided to abandon the further expedition and focus on saving Revol's life. She was safely brought down the mountain and transported to hospital in Islamabad. The woman was in a very bad condition, she had not eaten or drank for several days, she was dehydrated and emaciated.
Elisabeth Revol confirmed that together with Tomek Mackiewicz they reached the Nanga Parbat summit. They are the second team in history to achieve this in winter. The mountain was an obsession of the mountaineer, she had previously tried to climb it three times. She has already completed four eight-thousanders - Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak and Lhotse. Right now Elizabeth is second woman in history who conquered an eight-thousander in winter. Before her, the Swiss Marianne Chapuisat managed to do this in 1993 on Cho Oyu.
Unfortunately, Tomek stayed on this mountain forever. It may be comforting that it was his long-term desire to achieve this sewing. Since 2011, six times he tried to climb Nanga Parbat, finally on the seventh time he achieved his goal, unfortunately with tragic results.
Tomek "Czapkins" Mackiewicz
pap.pl
Tomek "Czapkins" Mackiewicz discovered his passion for mountains and climbing a few years after leaving addiction from heroin. His credits include, among others: A journey through the largest glaciers of Alaska and Yukon in 2008, for which he won the COLOSSUS in the feat of the year category, and a solo climb to the northernmost one Mount Khan Tengri (7010 m) in 2009 in Tian Shan.
The climber left three children orphaned children in ages 9,7 and 6. They are ongoing collection to help his family. The Polish collection is conducted on the website spalka.pl, international collection on gofundme.com.
Source: Climbing.pl, http://www.se.pl
